With the up and coming release of our latest collection "FRAMED" we thought we would write up a little blog for all you stylish cats out there considering this style of setting.
### The Delicate Balance of Jewelry Design: Style vs. Functionality
One of our favorite ring styles is the bezel setting, but the trend for ultra-lightweight and delicate designs has been growing, with clients often requesting as little metal as possible to hold their stones. Some customers even ask if claws or prongs can be removed altogether—bless them!
However, the reality is that prongs (or claws) are essential to secure your diamond or gemstone in place. Without them, your stone would be at risk of falling out. It's a delicate balancing act between aesthetic desires and functionality, and it often feels like a constant challenge. We frequently have customers requesting rings so lightweight that they wouldn't be durable enough for daily wear.
We often hear, "But I found this picture of a ring by Melanie Casey on Pinterest!"
While some jewelry designers push the limits of delicate design, setting large diamonds in bands as thin as 1.2mm can be problematic. Such lightweight rings, especially those holding 2-carat stones, are risky. The bands are so thin that they can easily bend, leading to loose or lost diamonds. We can only imagine the number of disappointed customers those brands must deal with!
It’s easy to forget that jewelry, especially engagement rings, must be functional. While it may not sound glamorous, engagement rings need to withstand daily wear and tear.
### Bezel Settings: A Classic, Overlooked Design
Amid the obsession with feather-light rings, one style has been overlooked: the bezel or rub-over setting. Fortunately, we’ve seen a recent rise in interest in this durable, contemporary option.
#### What is a Bezel Setting?
A bezel setting is where your stone is fully or partially encased in a smooth metal frame. This design is sleek, modern, and provides excellent durability. Unlike prong settings, bezels are less likely to catch on clothing or hair, making them a practical choice for everyday wear.
---
### **Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About Bezel Settings and Diamonds**
#### **Will a bezel setting cover too much of my diamond.
Many clients worry that a bezel will obscure too much of their diamond, especially after investing in a high-quality stone. The truth is, a bezel only covers about 0.02mm of the stone’s edge (also known as the girdle), just enough to secure it. For many, a bezel can actually make a diamond appear larger, especially in a white metal like platinum. The extra 0.6mm of metal around the stone creates a bigger, more defined silhouette.
#### **Does the size of the stone affect the appearance of the bezel?**
Yes! The larger your diamond or gemstone, the finer the bezel will appear. However, you can also opt for a thicker bezel for a more prominent look. The minimum thickness for a bezel is typically around 0.9mm, but your jeweler can customize the design to your preferences.
#### **Do bezel settings work with all diamond shapes?**
Bezel settings are incredibly versatile and can work with any diamond shape, including round brilliant, princess, oval cuts. However, we find that square and octagonal shapes, like the Asscher-cut or emerald-cut diamonds, look especially stunning in bezel settings, as the metal frame accentuates their geometric lines. Round shapes also pair well, but cushion-cut diamonds can sometimes appear uneven when bezel-set, so it’s essential to consult with your jeweller on the best options.
---
### The Pros and Cons of Bezel Settings for Engagement Rings
#### **Advantages of a Bezel Setting**
1. **Durability**: Bezel settings provide more protection for your diamond or gemstone, reducing the risk of chipping or damage.
2. **Practicality**: Because the stone is fully enclosed, it’s less likely to snag on clothing or hair—perfect for daily wear.
3. **Sleek Appearance**: The smooth metal frame creates a modern, minimalistic look that many clients love.
#### **Will a bezel setting make my diamond look smaller?**
Not necessarily! While some people fear the metal surrounding the stone will make it look smaller, the opposite can be true. In fact, in some cases a Platinum bezel setting can make the diamond appear larger by creating a defined, prominent outline.
#### **Downsides of a Bezel Setting**
While bezels are highly durable, certain diamond cuts, like emerald or Asscher, can appear slightly less brilliant due to the way light interacts with the stone. For instance, if you set a white emerald-cut diamond in a yellow gold bezel, some of the yellow colour may reflect through the diamond, giving it a slightly tinted appearance.
However, cuts like the radiant-cut diamond, with its octagonal silhouette and exceptional brilliance, are perfect for bezel settings, offering a stunning, sparkling alternative.
---
### **Design Considerations for Bezel Settings**
When choosing a bezel setting, keep in mind that it works particularly well with diamonds that have straight edges, like square, emerald, or princess cuts. Unlike prongs, which can sometimes distract from the diamond's shape, bezels enhance and emphasize the stone's natural lines.
For example, a princess-cut diamond bezel-set will retain its sharp, square shape, while round brilliant diamonds can maintain their perfect circle without being interrupted by prongs. However, cushion-cut diamonds are not always our top recommendation for bezels, as they can appear uneven in some designs.
---
### Conclusion: Should You Choose a Bezel Setting for Your Engagement Ring?
If you love the sleek, modern look and the security of a bezel setting, we say go for it! While there are a few technicalities that jewellers obsess over, the most important thing is finding a style that fits your personal taste and lifestyle.
Whether you're considering a bezel-set diamond engagement ring, a delicate prong setting, or a modern compass setting, always consult with your jeweller to ensure your ring balances beauty and durability. After all, your engagement ring is meant to last a lifetime!
---
**engagement rings**, **diamonds**, **prong setting**, **bezel setting**, **carat size**, **girdle**, **platinum**, **emerald-cut**, **princess-cut**, **radiant-cut**,
